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Rebuilding the fabric of life in L'Aquila
By Stephanie Holmes
BBC News, L'Aquila
As she slowly turns the pages of a leather-bound album, revealing black
and white pictures of her wedding in L'Aquila's basilica, Angela Ciano
can barely hold back the tears.
Unlike some L'Aquila
residents, she did not lose her husband, child or home in the
earthquake that devastated the city in April.
But the realisation that the places and structures that formed the fabric of her life are gone forever is still painful.
"What I felt was a sense of great loss," she tells me as she describes
walking through L'Aquila in the hours immediately following the quake. "I have that feeling with me still, today, of having
lost not only the city with its monuments - which we can reconstruct -
but the loss of my life, everyday life - meeting your friends in the
cafe on the square or underneath the arches, the shops we used to have,
my old offices."
Stained city
Her memories of that walk through the ruined city have stained her image of the city she still loves.
"I had taken my camera with me but I just couldn't bear to take any photos," she remembers.
One of the most dramatically damaged buildings was the church where
Angela was married 12 years ago, the Basilica Santa Maria di
Collemaggio, which dates originally from the 13th Century.
With its pink and white facade, it was a focal point for many of the
city's believers, who prayed by the tomb of the monk who founded the
church and became pope. It is now being rebuilt again - as it has been several
times during its history - but the buzz of cranes and the sound of
hammering metal from outside cannot prepare you for the sight that
awaits within. At one end of the nave a vast portion of the roof now
lies as rubble on the floor. Arches that curved up towards the heavens
have fallen, revealing the bricks behind, and the sky where workers
dangle from cranes. A stained glass window catches my eye - it seems open
but in reality it has been partially sheered from its frame by the
force of the quake.
Metal scaffolding has been erected along the entire length of the nave as men in hard hats work at shoring up pillars.
"When these things happen - we mustn't ask why did God want this?" says
the rector, Don Nunzio, also in a hard hat, as well as his usual
clerical garb.
"They are natural events. We have to have the faith to say - it has been destroyed, we will rebuild it," he says.
Tour of destruction
No mass has been said in the basilica since the quake. Don Nunzio has
been visiting his parishioners in their temporary homes - many in the
tent cities that are scattered in fields around L'Aquila. "For many, their faith will be reinforced, but for
others it may fade," he admits. "They'll wonder how God could let all
this destruction happen? They'll ask - couldn't he save us?" He bristles at the suggestion that it makes no sense to
rebuild a city that, located on a faultline, remains continually at
risk of destruction. "You can't cancel out history, history stays in the
heart and in the mind. To abandon history, not rebuild it means losing
our identity. We want to rebuild and leave the sign of what happened -
even if that was painful."
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